Knots for Climbing

Unless you’re an expert who gets off on the knowledge of ‘thousands of knots’ and hitches, knowing a handful of them will suffice for your entire rock climbing career. The important  factor is to understand the appropriate application of knots and hitches, rather than knowing a wide variety of them. The essential knots required and its use in specific scenarios has been listed below, for avid rock climbers and adventure enthusiasts.

Tie in knots

Tie in knots come in handy when you need to tie the rope into your harness.

Figure of eight follow through

This is the standard knot and the first knot that is taught most often. It is simple to tie, easy to inspect, and is incredibly strong. A six inch tail is mandatory to ensure that the knot does not untie under cyclical load.

Bowline on a Bight or Doppelter Bulin

The original Bowline has the dubious distinction for untying itself under cyclical loading in normal circumstances.However, there are variations of it such as the ‘Double or Water Bowline’ which makes it more reliable. Its main disadvantage is that it isn’t much of an improvement after the figure of eight follow through.Comparatively, the Doppelter Bulin or the Bowline on a Bight (BOAB), is an incredibly reliable knot as it provides tremendous redundancy and overcomes all the attendant issues. It is also surprisingly easy to inspect and is rather easy to untie after hanging on the harness.

 Friction knots

Friction knots for backup during rappelling, for ascending or other rescue applications.
Friction hitches or rope grabbing hitches can be used as rappel backups, for ascending and other rescue applications. Depending on the requirement and circumstance there are four varieties of it as listed below. Each of the
hitches, provides a certain degree of friction and is easy to use.

Prusik

The Prusik is most commonly taught.  However, this should only be used when a higher degree of friction is needed, in a rescue situation or for ascending.A prusik loop is typically created with a 4-6 feet of 6-7 mm cordage, connected by a double fisherman knot.  The 7mm diameter provides excellent friction, the required margin of strength and redundancy in rescue operations.

Autoblock

It is also known as French Prusik or Machard Tresse, and is similar to Klemheist. However, the ends of the wrapped loop are simply clipped into a carabiner.  Autoblock has a lesser degree of friction that is sufficient to act as the brake backup for a rappel, and is the simplest and the quickest to setup.

Caution: Do not use autoblock in wet conditions.  It is recommended for the first one to be lowered and the subsequent people to be supported via a
fireman’s belay.

Klemheist

This is generally preferred for rescue activities, or when a higher degree of friction is necessary on thinner ropes.

Bachmann

It can be used while ascending as it is easy to release under load and to slide up.  However, it is important to remember not to grab the carabiner while ascending, and must only be used to slide the friction hitch up.

Connecting two ropes for rappels

There are only two knots that are generally necessary for connecting two ropes for rappels, and the one recommended by experts is the Euro Death Knot.

Flat Overhand Bend or the Euro Death Knot

The EDK or Euro Death knot is used for attaching two ropes of different diameters, while leaving tails of 14-18 inches.

Caution: Leaving tails that are too long has sometimes accidently caused climbers to use the tails while setting up the rappels.

Double Fisherman

It is used to connect two ropes and accounts for one of the strongest connector knots.However, the knots profile allows it to snag on the rocks surface extrusions, especially when the ropes are being retrieved from the anchor, post-rappelling.  For this reason, even while the Euro Death Knot may be weaker as compared to the Double Fisherman, it is supremely superior for rappelling.

Connecting two ropes or webbing for other applications

Double fisherman is one of the strongest connector knots out there, as it tightens up further when the ropes are pulled apart.  Double fisherman is the preferred way to connect ropes while creating Prusik cordage, or for anchoring cordage.  For Kevlar/Technora cordage that is used in slinging nuts or hexes, the use of Triple Fisherman is suggested, which requires one more wrap before threading back the rope on each side.  While creating a cordlette for anchoring or the Prusik Loop, it is important to leave tails of 3 to 5 cm.

Ring bend or Water knot

This is the only recommended knot, while using a length of webbing for runners or anchors.

Anchors

Anchors are a complex subject.  A wide knowledge of various elements such as knots, skills, an ability to recognize specific gear and knot requirements, is necessary for non contemporary situations that may arise in climbing (outside of double bolted anchor stations). Below, is a list of some of the most commonly used knots.

Clove hitch

This is a reliably strong and adjustable hitch. It is quick to tie in to anchors, and easy to adjust.

Figure of Eight on a Bight

It is very similar in profile to the Figure of Eight follow through, with the tying method being quicker and simpler.  This is the preferred knot for clipping into a carabiner.

Bowline

In case, of tying a rope or cordage around a tree, or a rock, the bowline (refer previous page) is most useful one.

Knots for Anchor Master Points

Big Honkin Knot

This is the most common and strongest way to set up an anchor master point, whether it is for a top rope or for a cordlette based anchor system.

Double Figure Eight Loop or ‘Bunny Ears’

When short on rope, this knot is useful for top rope anchors. It is beneficial for equalizing the load on two anchors as it uses lesser rope than the Big Honking Knot.

Knots & Hitches useful for rescue situations

Munter Hitch

It is also known as the Italian Hitch, and was popularized by a group of Italian guides in the 1950s as a reliable mode of  belaying.  It is a key skill to have, if the belay device is accidentally dropped. There are variations of this that make it more interesting for various other situations.

For eg, the Auto-blocking Munter Hitch can be used to bring up a second more securely.

Mule-Overhand backup

This refers to the method of locking off a belay device in a manner, that even under load it can be released.

Munter-Mule-Overhand

It is useful for the releasable tie-off of the climber, or if they need their hands to be free, or need to belay directly off of the anchor.

Mariner’s hitch/knot

This load-releasable knot is useful for rescue situations, and to escape belay.

Other Knots & Hitches

Girth Hitch

It is also known as the Lark’s foot hitch. It can be applied   in case of attaching a personal anchor to the harness.

Stopper knots

This refers to a family of knots that are useful in tying off the end of a rope. The most commonly used ones are the Double Overhand and the Figure of Eight.

Slip knot on a sling

When trad climbing, one may come across a chicken head. This knot is a useful skill in order to use that chicken head or other similar protrusions (bolts without hangers) for protection.

Alpine Butterfly or Butterfly knot

It is especially useful when the rope has to be loaded in both directions or to isolate a damaged section of the rope.

Overhand knot

This can be a good limiter knot on cordage which is used for anchors or personal anchors, for master point clip, or on a bight with a closed loop.

Chocking knots

When climbers need to protect themselves using nothing but the slings or ropes, they can jam or chock them in the constricted cracks. Reliable stopper knots such as Double Overhand or Stevedore can work very well for these situations.